Pilastro KATIA KALEA Pfeiler
Schlagsteinspitze (2861 m.)
Maso Corto – Kurzras (Val Senales – Schnalstal)
Roberto Iacopelli, Giuseppe Malfatti, Flavio Gretter (26 giugno 2021)
Approach: 1.15 h. – Ascent 2 h. – Descents (A) and (B) 1 h.
Materials: Normal equipment for mountaineering routes which includes 6 quickdraws and a few medium friends (sizes from yellow BD upwards).
A beautiful and easy route, on compact gneiss, well equipped, in an environment and with an incomparable panorama …. what more do you want? 🙂
The Schlagsteinspitze centrally dominates the basin of Maso Corto as the Campanile of Val Montanaia does in the homonymous valley. Given the position of this peak, the view is truly incomparable!
From below it seems more difficult than it is, but given that its gneiss is never vertical and is always full of horizontal blades and holds, climbing turns out to be an easy walk.
The difficulties are therefore very limited and within everyone’s reach (III / IV degree), for this reason I decided to equip it as best as possible (19 nails present) in order to make it easily usable.
No bolts were used as the rock accepts excellent classic pegs.
From the large Maso Corto car park, take path 3 which leads to Rif. Bellavista.
You climb it up to the height of the intermediate station of the chairlift (Rif. Teufelsegg), you always continue along the path that now climbs diagonally straight up a long slope, when this enters on the left into a plateau of a basin, you leave it a little before a red-marked pole on the left of the path itself. Wall and away are now well in sight. You go up a system of grassy areas interspersed with vast slopes of blocks up to the obvious attack marked by a stone cairn and a cord placed about 10 meters high. (1.15 h.)
(A) Abseiling from the route
To date, two half ropes are needed to abseil back from the route (in the future I plan to arrange the rappels also for 25 m double ropes). After the three abseils along the pillar, 25 + 40 + 40 m. Descend along the slope of broken blocks on the south side of the saddle, skirt the long ridge until you return to the start.
(B) Descent along the crest of the normal route
If you have climbed with a single rope then (at the moment) you will have to follow the normal route, it is a somewhat laborious ridge and in some places not easy and exposed (better to progress tied in the central and final stretch). You get to set foot on the ground not far from the ski slope.
You go down directly on the slopes of flocchi and then meadows until you rejoin the path nr. 3
If you go and repeat it please write me your impressions at:
Good Climb to you all!